Hinterlands Restaurant

We returned to the Third Ward this week to have dinner with our friends, Doc and Kay. We chose to try one of the Journal/Sentinel’s restaurant critic's top 8 new restaurants of 2008. Carol Deptola gave The Hinterlands a 3.5 star rating. I think I'd give it a 3.

To those of us living in Waukesha County, it’s hardly what we’d call Hinterlands. How “hinter” can it be considered when it’s on Erie Street, east of The river?

Some of the reviews I’ve read of this restaurant agreed that the food was superb, but the prices were high. We agreed that the food was very good, but we were not blown away by the prices. Until we got our bill. Okay, so we spent $140 per couple (includes tip). The entrees are $35 - $45. That includes only one slice of bread per person (it was freshly baked and still warm) and water. Salads and starters are ala carte and cost $8 - $16. But they are special. Think about it: if someone brought you some winter radish greens, a few turnips, trout, elk ribs, and some fennel, could you create a new menu using these items? And do it every day? That is an amazing feat. The items created by the chef at Hinterlands are not only creative, but tasty.

The bisque of sweet potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms on Tuesday night was just a bit sweet, yet savory enough and served in a simple oval bowl with shiso greens and flax seeds on top. The tower of fried green tomatoes with lumps of crab between the layers was also beautiful.

Which dish won the best entree contest, you're asking? It would be difficult to choose. The seared scallops with polenta and more chanterelle mushrooms was a bit sweet, but cooked to perfection -- No easy task, as anyone who has tried cooking sea scallops can tell you. Doc’s pork tenderloin was just done, a bit pink in the center, as pork should be these days. I remember how it was in my mother’s kitchen. Pork had to be done to its dryest level to assure the health of the guests. Not today. And Hinterland’s kitchen has this down pat. Apparently another delicious entree was the orange-glazed duck. But it was so good that I wasn’t even allowed a sample. I can only tell you that Mr. Picky Eater just about licked his plate.

My entree of ginger dusted trout was good, but not magnificent. The roasted eggplant puree and adzuki beans didn’t add as much interest as I’d hoped to the rather boring trout.

I hesitate to order wine in a restaurant that specializes in their own beer, brewed on site. But our waitress, Sarah, knew her wines. She recommended an Italian wine that they had by the glass. Thankfully, she allowed me to taste a small sip before pouring my glass. The tannins were WAY out there, beyond my taste preference. After restudying the menu, I found a cabernet franc by the glass. I have enjoyed this varietal in Virginia, where it is the grape most atuned to the climate of Thomas Jefferson’s winery at Monticello. It was very nice – tasty, but not too overpoweringly fruity.

So far, of restaurants in the Third Ward, our foursome votes for Swig for all around good food, prices, and service (after our first experience of trying to eat a too-complex meal there before theater). Personally, I’d give Swig a tie with the Third Ward Caffe for overall dining experience. Hinterlands is up there too for its very creative menu and good service. Of course it was -5 degrees the night we were there. We should have good service when we’re the only customers.

Many reviewers have spoken highly of Hinterland’s desserts, but I didn’t even finish my entree. My mom’s voice still tells me, “No dessert if you don’t eat your liver”. Though Hinterlands doesn’t serve liver, I can’t take the guilt if I eat dessert without cleaning my plate.

Stirring the Pot